The Border Mail's Jodie Bruton writes about Bidja's connection to Buller Wines.
Craig was fortunate enough to chat to Jodie about his wine career and full-circle moment when starting Bidja Wines.
First Nations wine flows at Rutherglen as industry pioneer joins new venture
Jodie Bruton, The Border Mail
April 22, 2025.
The co-founder of Australia's original First Nations-owned and operated vineyard, Murrin Bridge Wines, Craig Cromelin, is thrilled to be back working in the wine industry in a new venture with Buller Wines and other stakeholders.When Craig Cromelin visits Buller Wines near Rutherglen, the staff instinctively greet him with "Bidja". The Ngiyampaa wordBidja means "friend" in the language of his grandmother.
The co-founder of Australia's original First Nations-owned and operated vineyard, Murrin Bridge Wines, Mr Cromelin was thrilled to be back working in the wine industry after a two-decade hiatus. Still living at Murrin Bridge near Lake Cargelligo in the NSW Central West, Mr Cromelin recently teamed up on Bidja Wines, a new venture between himself, Buller Wines, BevanMailman, Kade McDonald and James Stephens.He said the opportunity came out of the blue. "I had little to no intention of going down this path again," he said. "But things happen for a reason; something happened, that allowed me to get back onto the path I helped create 21 years ago. A path for other Aboriginal people to get into the wine industry, and so now my pathway has set me on this new platform." After hatching a plan with Mr Cromelin at the Lake Cargelligo Bowling Club last spring, BevanMailman approached Buller Wines with the idea of creating a First Nations wine brand. Bidja Wines reflects the brand's spirit of coming together; whether it's sharing a meal, celebrating milestones or simply enjoying life with those who matter most.
As Bidja Wines chairman, Mr Cromelin said the philosophy and the timing felt right for him. He said Buller Wines had crafted seven varietals from fruit sourced throughout Victoria. "I travelled to Buller Wines to set up the varietals," Mr Cromelin said. "They've been made to my palate." Mr Cromelin brought his craftsmanship as both a winemaker and a storyteller, ensuring Bidja was not just a wine, but a meaningful experience."When you drink wine, whose company are you in? It's your family, friends and colleagues," he says. "Bidja is a simple and nice fit for it."
As Bidja Wines chairman, Mr Cromelin said the philosophy and the timing felt right for him. He said Buller Wines had crafted seven varietals from fruit sourced throughout Victoria. "I travelled to Buller Wines to set up the varietals," Mr Cromelin said. "They've been made to my palate." Mr Cromelin brought his craftsmanship as both a winemaker and a storyteller, ensuring Bidja was not just a wine, but a meaningful experience."When you drink wine, whose company are you in? It's your family, friends and colleagues," he says. "Bidja is a simple and nice fit for it."
Roots in Murrin Bridge Wines
As co-founder of Murrin Bridge Wines, Mr Cromelin paved the way for First Nations representation in the wine industry. The vineyard was established in 1999 by 16 men who were part of the First Nations unemployment program, Community Development Employment Projects, and TAFE.One of their teachers suggested they try viticulture, and they became the original First Nations-owned wine business in Australia with their first vintage in the early 2000s. With no money to buy vines, Mr Cromelin and the community took cuttings from Pat Calabria's vineyard at Griffith, established a nursery and planted 7000 vines of chardonnay, shiraz and semillon. The hands-on experience taught them valuable viticultural skills, resilience and a can-do attitude in the face of opposition and small-mindedness.
By 2001, the community harvested its first vintage, producing a mere 1.8 tonnes of grapes. With the help of winemaker Domenic Piromalli, Mr Cromelin refined the Murrin Bridge wine style by tasting and learning what he liked, "without needing technical wine jargon". This hands-on approach allowed the community to develop wines that were fruit-driven, lightly oaked and accessible. Murrin Bridge artist Lindsay Kirby was commissioned to design the stunning artwork for the labels."Wine and winemaking aren't just about technique; it's about bringing people together, sharing stories and creating something that lasts beyond the glass. With Bidja Wines you have a seat at the table," Mr Cromelin said.